the streets of Valladolid

Ek Balam and Valladolid: A perfect weekend getaway from Playa del Carmen or Cancun

by Ashley
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Valladolid and Ek Balam Photo Journal

During our first month-long stay in Playa del Carmen in 2023, we made a weekend trip to Valladolid so we could visit the Ek Balam ruins and explore another region of the Yucatan. We took a 1/2 day off work so we could hit the road right after picking up Skyler from school. We spent Friday evening exploring the grounds of our hotel and eating at the on-site restaurant. Saturday was for exploring Ek Balam and the town of Valladolid. Sunday morning, we enjoyed some pool time before heading out for lunch and driving home. All in all, it was an easy and fun weekend getaway!

Even though it was just a short distance away from PDC, it felt like a totally different part of Mexico. The culture and vibes of Valladolid are very different from the beach town of Playa del Carmen, and English is spoken far less in this area than the expat heavy population of PDC. 

Valladolid, founded in 1543, carries the colonial legacy of Spanish rule. Cobblestone streets, pastel-hued facades, and the imposing San Servacio Cathedral reflect the town’s colonial architecture. We hope that our photos will be able to give you a sense of what this lovely town is really like! (Remember you can click on any of the photos to enlarge them!)

Getting to Valladolid from Cancun or Playa del Carmen

Valladolid is approximately a 2-hour drive from both Cancun and Playa del Carmen. We drove because I feel more comfortable when I’m in control of the transportation situation (it really helps calm my nerves and anxiety). Renting a car provides flexibility, but ADO buses also connect these destinations to Valladolid for those preferring public transportation.

Getting around Valladolid

Valladolid is a pedestrian-friendly town, and most attractions are within walking distance. Embrace the slow pace, wander the streets, and absorb the town’s charm on foot.


What to do in Valladolid

Cenotes

The Yucatan and Riviera Maya is renowned for its cenotes, natural sinkholes formed by collapsed cave systems. Valladolid is surrounded by these refreshing pools of turquoise water, offering a unique opportunity to cool off and explore the subterranean wonders. While you can find many cenotes in the surrounding area, Valladolid’s most famous cenote is smack dab in the middle of town: Cenote Zaci. We chose not to go down into the Cenote and instead enjoyed a lovely meal overlooking the magical watering hole.


Eat

Indulge your taste buds in Yucatecan delights. My favorite culinary discovery was the cochinita pibil, a slow-roasted pork dish, or cool off with a refreshing sip of horchata. Mmmmmm, my mouth is watering as I think about it. Valladolid’s culinary scene is definitely a feast for those seeking authentic flavors.


Hang out in the main square

The main square, el Parque Principal, seemed like a happening place where something was always going on. Music and dancers, street food vendors, families enjoying the evening air. With a fountain and plenty of places to sit, the main plaza of Valladolid seemed like the beating heart of the town.


Wander the streets

Valladolid’s streets are adorned with vibrant murals and street art, blending contemporary creativity with the town’s historical backdrop. Take a leisurely stroll, camera in hand, to discover these colorful expressions that add a modern flair to the colonial setting. Even though it was quite hot as we walked around, I loved soaking up the sounds and colors of this town. I did not hear much English which was a treat!

Bonus for families with small kids: there are a couple different playgrounds available to let your kids burn off some energy!!


Visit the San Bernardino Convent 

The nightly light show at the San Bernardino Convent in Valladolid is a nice way to cap off your day and learn a bit more about the area’s history. As evening falls, the convent’s façade is illuminated with a projection mapping display that tells the story of Valladolid from its Mayan origins to its colonial era. 


Ek Balam

Now, for the whole reason we went to Valladolid in the first place: the ruins of Ek Balam! Ek Balam, meaning “Black Jaguar” in Mayan, is an archaeological site located a short drive from Valladolid. This ancient Mayan city, although not as well-known as some of its counterparts like Chichen Itza or Tulum, offers a unique and immersive experience for those interested in Mayan history and culture. It gained prominence for its well-preserved structures, including the Acropolis, a pyramid boasting intricate stucco sculptures and breathtaking views from its summit (though neither my husband or I were brave enough to climb to the top).


Getting to Ek Balam from Valladolid

Ek Balam is only about 27 km / 17 miles north of Valladolid, and took us less than 45 minutes to get there in our rental car. The roads were mostly highway, surrounded by jungle, or slower roads through small Yucatan towns, including Temozon, which you can see in the video below. 


Why we chose to visit Ek Balam instead of Chichen Itza

We were originally going to visit Chichen Itza, but after reading a lot of reviews and detailed descriptions online, we decided that our time would be better spent visiting Ek Balam. We had a 3 year old with us, and the reviews of Chichen Itza mentioned lack of shade, long lines, busy crowds, and we were not in the mood to deal with any of that with our toddler. Instead, we opted for the far less crowded, cheaper, and heavily shaded Ek Balam. 

Another key difference between Chichen Itza and Ek Balam is that you can still climb on and interact with the ruins at Ek Balam in a way that you can not at Chichen Itza. We knew this would be much more engaging for our son, as well as for us! 


Exploring Ek Balam

When you first arrive at Ek Balam, you’ll park and follow a short path to the visitor’s center. This is where you will pay the entrance fee, and find the only onsite restrooms as well as light snacks and drinks for sale. Make your kids pee before you start exploring the site!! 

Also, be warned: they do not accept credit cards and there are no ATMs on site. Bring cash!

Then you’ll walk through a small souvenir market (always have to go through a gift shop, eh?) as you follow the path to the ruins. While the path is mostly flat and wide enough for several people, it is dirt and not paved so not ideal for strollers or wheelchairs unless they have wheels appropriate for more rugged terrain. Wear good walking shoes. 

To enter the ruins area, you will pass through one of the exterior walls of the ancient city. Then you’re on your own and free to walk around, explore the nooks and crannies of the ruins, and even climb to the top (if you dont have a fear of heights)! 

Parents with young children will revel in letting the kids run freely without having to yell at them to not touch or not climb – they can touch and climb all they want! Though beware: these are incredibly old structures with steep steps and uneven surfaces that can be challenging to navigate.

There are plenty of shaded spots to shield you from the brutal Yucatan jungle sun when you need a break; we were there in February and had sweat pouring down our backs within minutes of being outside. (The inland areas are quite humid compared to the coastal areas like PDC and Cancun.) 

There are few signs located around the premises but they will provide a map in the visitor’s center. I pulled the Wikipedia map up on my phone so we knew which structure we were viewing or climbing. 

The Acropolis on the northern side of the site is the largest structure at Ek Balam and contains the tomb of one of their kings. The stairs were far too steep for any of us to feel comfortable climbing them, so we missed the views from the top. It was still super cool to visit such an old and intact site.


Have you been to Valladolid?

Share your tips and photos! Where else should visitors go when they visit this quaint inland town? Favorite restaurants, playgrounds, cenotes, or ruins? Share your experiences in the comments! 


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